Not all Levi’s are made equal, not even the one’s with the same model number! So here’s a guide to help you get the most durable and quality pair of Jeans.

1853 - During the Californis Gold Rush for miners.

They don’t make them like they used to

Collection

  • Levi’s
  • Levi’s Premium
  • Levi’s Vintage Clothing (LVC)
  • Levi’s Made in Japan

Tabs:

  • All upper case until
  • Orange - for their fashion line 1960s
  • Silver - Introduced in 1988 baggy trend
  • Black with gold lettering - Sta-pressed anti wrinkle
  • Levis for gals
  • Dark blue - premium

LEVIS on old & Levis on new

Pathc:

  • Leather
  • Paper/ Jacron (Cellulose + Rubber)

Rivet

  • Copper
  • Steel
  • Zinc alloy Rivet in front and back
  • Bar tacks instead of rivets

Sticking

Stitches per inch, higher is better

Material for pocket bags

Longer cotton fibers - cotton grown for longer Modern cotton - grown quicker and thus shorter

Chain stitch vs Loop stitch

  • Men’s usually have chain stitch & Women’s have loop stitch
  • Which is better

Shuttle loom

  • 4 times slower
  • They produce denim half width vs Projectile loom

Selvedge - Self edge - shuttle loom - less likely to fray

Single sticked back pockets vs double sticked back pockets

Material

100% Cotton will last longer than jeans with mixed materials

Polyester starts to smell a lot faster than Cotton - thus needing more washes

Shrink to fit is better - raw denim

Weight

Country of Origin

Given the same material composition, pairs produced in some countries are better than others,

Japan Egypt > Vietnam > Sri Lanka/Bangladesh ≈ India

Tests of Quality

Things that wear out fast in a poor pair,

  • Buttons
  • Pockets
  • Belt loops

Vintage


Refs